Thursday, December 29, 2011

How Much Should I charge For My commercial Cleaning Services?

You've bought all your cleaning supplies and equipment, told everybody you know that you have started a cleaning firm and now you are ready to start bidding on jobs and getting down to work. So your next step is to meet with potential clients and put together a bid for their cleaning services. But how do you know what to payment for cleaning your potential client's building?

Start off by remembering that you are in firm to make a behalf and earn a living. Sometimes the tendency is to price our services low in order to get our foot in the door. Pricing your services too low may mean you will end up working for very petite per hour. And more importantly, will have petite left over to reinvest in the growth of your company. There are cleaning fellowships that payment more than others and have all the work they can handle and there are fellowships that have lower fees yet are struggling to find work! Don't sell yourself short or you will not be able to earn a living off your cleaning business.

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The rates for commercial cleaning vary widely depending upon the area you live. Hourly rates are in any place from to per hour depending on the type of services that you provide, whether or not you're doing the work yourself, and your company's overhead and expenses. Monthly quadrilateral footage rates could run in any place from $.05 to $.20 per quadrilateral foot depending on the type of building you are cleaning and the frequency of cleaning. You'll be able to bid a higher quadrilateral footage price for curative facilities versus office structure due to more specialized cleaning needs. You'll likely bid a lower quadrilateral footage price for large structure versus small buildings. For example, you may bid $.08 per quadrilateral foot for a 50,000 quadrilateral foot building versus $.12 per quadrilateral foot for an 8,000 quadrilateral foot building.

You will most likely be charging your customers a monthly price and you will need to frame that price by estimating how long it will take to accomplish the services that your client has requested. The more productive you or your employees are, the higher the hourly yield rate. If you're able to clean 3,500 quadrilateral feet per hour, your behalf will be higher than if you're only able to clean 2,500 quadrilateral feet per hour, so adjust your price accordingly.

It's also a good idea to find out what the "going rates" are in your area. A few phone calls to competitors may be indispensable to get an idea of the basic charges in your area. Use a script when you call so you can collate apples to apples. So what do you say when you call? Try something like, "Hi, I have a small firm office that I would like cleaned once a week. It is 3000 quadrilateral feet and has two small restrooms. Can you give me a rough assessment of what you what you payment per month?" The someone may or may not give you an estimate. Most contractors will insist on walking through the building, but it is worth a few phone calls so you have a ballpark frame on what cleaning fellowships in the area are charging.

To assessment what you should payment for cleaning a building, start by doing a walk-through with the building owner or manager. Keep track of the following:

* Frequency of cleaning (once a week, three times a week, five times a week). If frequency is one or two times per week, it's best to assessment your time and multiply by your hourly rate. If cleaning 3 or more times per week you can assessment your time by the quadrilateral foot.

* farranging quadrilateral feet

* Types of floor surfaces and quadrilateral footage of each (carpet, vinyl flooring, ceramic tile)

* Types of rooms - normal office, break room, restrooms. Also note the whole of toilets/stalls and fixtures in each restroom, as well as the types of restroom supplies used.

* Any extra considerations - heavy traffic areas, elevators, unusual requests, etc.

* Make note of the exact services the client is seeking such as emptying trash, dusting, restroom cleaning, mopping and vacuuming.

The following services are specialized services and you should bid them separately, and list a per-service payment on your bid:

* Stripping and Waxing (.25¢ - .50¢ per quadrilateral foot)

* Buffing/Burnishing (.03¢ - .07¢ per quadrilateral foot)

* motor Cleaning of Ceramic Tile floors (.12¢ - .21¢ per quadrilateral foot)

* rug Cleaning (.12¢ - .25¢ per quadrilateral foot)

* rug Spotting ( - per hour)

* Cleaning appliances (microwave, refrigerator) - - per appliance

* Window Washing (.00 - .00 per pane)

Make sure you take adequate notes so you can put together a realistic price that is fair to the client and one in which you will make a profit. After your first meeting with the client, go back to your office look through your notes and conclude what it will cost you to clean the building. You may have to consult a yield cleaning rate chart to conclude how long it will take you and your staff to clean the building. Once you have an idea of how long it will take to clean the building you can put your cost assessment together:

* assessment the time it will take by using a yield cleaning rate chart or calculator.

* conclude your labor cost for cleaning the building one time.

* conclude your monthly labor cost to clean the building.

* assessment a monthly cost for supplies. This will be a fairly low figure, maybe 1 or 2% of monthly sales.

* Be sure to add in a behalf margin!

Add up the figures and you will come up with your monthly cost. If you have way to a bidding calculator you will be able to put in a series of numbers and come up with a price. A bidding calculator will also show what behalf you can expect to make. It is also advisable to add a first time cleaning charge. This is commonly an hourly rate of maybe - an hour. The first time you go through a building it will take longer and you may find the previous cleaning aid may have left dirt in cracks and crevices that you will have to clean the first time through.

Once you have your price established, put your bid packet together. Your bid packet should specify what you are responsible for and what the client is responsible for (buying their own trash can liners, restrooms supplies, etc.). It should also include the monthly payment for cleaning services, how long the bargain is for, and the procedure to cancel the compact if whether party is unhappy.

It is important to learn how to price your cleaning services so your customers know you are providing a professional aid at a realistic price and so that you make a profit. After all, if you do not make a behalf you won't stay in firm very long!

Copyright (c) 2006 The Janitorial Store

How Much Should I charge For My commercial Cleaning Services?

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Friday, December 23, 2011

What! No Bonus!

In 1997 I moved to Colorado to work as a research engineer. We lived in a small town in the mountains. That's when I learned that my firm had given bonuses in past years but they stopped them because the local merchants were always badgering the firm about the bonuses that didn't come and the smaller- than-usual bonuses.

I didn't learn this from the company; I learned it from the guy at the hardware store.

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When your firm cut your bonus and said, "We had to do it because the local merchants complained to us," they may not be kidding.

Then again, it is cheap to dump a bonus plan that has gotten out of hand and too expensive.

Our firm solved the agenda by giving a regular productivity pay growth that could be raised or lowered agreeing to productivity. We all liked that. One engineer was fired however because the firm didn't think he was worth the increased pay he was getting straight through the increased productivity of the facility workers.

From what I learned down at the local hardware store, the facility folks would drop in, pick up a washing engine or refrigerator, and tell the owner that they would pay for it as soon as they got their bonuses. Then they would get no bonuses or a too-small bonuses.

The storeowner would say, Ouch!"

That's when he would call the factory: "You guys have got to pay a decent bonus over there so that your employees can pay for the stuff they are dragging out of my store."

So the firm stopped the bonuses.

I was reading somewhere the other day that that is still happening.

One firm I worked for cancelled our bonuses saying that our pay would be raised to compensate for the past bonuses. They said that they had to stop the bonuses because of the merchant situations described above.

That was a bunch of bull, of course. The truth was that the bonus expense was too high and not justified by current sales.

Did we see the growth described?

No! That would not turn anything for the company's lowest line would it?

When things got better, back came the bonuses in a different and best plan.

One firm I worked for paid a extra bonus for a extra achievement. They paid well based on the savings or profits generated. That way commonly the most creative citizen in positions that allow them to turn things, such as engineers and supervisors, would get the extra bonus. But not a few facility floor citizen got bonuses just by observing what was going on and suggesting a profitable idea.

I got a bonus right after I joined the firm by salvage them thousands of dollars in processing cost while reducing required yield floor space. I was surprised to receive it. That is what I was paid to do. Engineers that worked for me got bonuses for extra achievements that I unbelievable them to do without any extra compensation.

I'm not against bonuses. I think they can raise moral and encourage workers to heighten things. Gradual improvements can growth the productivity of a firm and heighten the ability of goods. Both results can mean more sales to the company. If a firm can growth productivity using the same capital equipment, that is all gravy.

Employees need to realize that a benevolent firm can have decreased profits and bonuses can't be paid at times. I think the best thing for a firm to do is to pay a bonus at intervals of less than a year.

A regular bonus could be best regulated in some fellowships and there would be less discontentment if a bonus was missed. If a small bonus was earned it could be added to any bonus generated the next quarter. That way the second bonus could be a minute larger than general and the employees would feel compensated.

Years ago a very large firm wanted to hire me but they couldn't match my salary. The reckon was that a major part of the pay plan for the firm was in bonuses. I could have taken the offer and done well financially, but I didn't want to work for such a humongous company.

When I retired from manufactures my bonus was approximately as high as my salary. I could see that the year I left was to be a good year so I stayed with the firm until the end of the fiscal year.

There are advantages and disadvantages to bonuses. One advantage is that you can lower the pay of the employees during hard times or when the firm has a need for added cash-- perhaps to spend in capital equipment.

The disadvantage is that the employees expect a bonus and moral drops precipitously when the bonus is not paid.

Bonuses are not commonly paid to those working under union contract. They are more common with the salaried employees.

One last thing: I worked for a firm in Pennsylvania that gave a turkey to each laborer on Thanksgiving and Christmas. Later they just gave a cash bonus to everybody that was more than sufficient to pay for a bird. There was something about that bonus that made a someone feel good. It was like the firm knew you were there. When I was running a facility I gave the checks out myself production the acceptable wishes to each and every employee. What fun! (Okay, I did the same thing every week with the paychecks.)

Should your firm give a bonus?

If so, how and what?

Should you stop giving bonuses?

How and when?

If you don't do the first you don't have to worry about the second, do you?

Still, bonuses can attract good employees and raise the moral of your current employees all at the risk that you will get into trouble with local merchants

The risk may be worth it. Just make sure that the plan is well documented for the employees and that it is always administered the same way. Once you start fiddling nearby with the plan you will get burned.

Don't start or cease a bonus plan without getting the input of some of those that it will affect. perhaps you should also consult an master in the matter.

Happy Workplace!

The End

copyright©John T. Jones, Ph.D.2005

What! No Bonus!

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Monday, December 19, 2011

Men Dealing With Women's Menopause Symptoms

Some of the changes and symptoms women encounter as they coming menopause can be difficult to withstand, and it's not unusual to wonder if you'll ever feel "normal" again. Not only are you dealing with bodily symptoms of menopause, such as hot flashes, night sweats, irregular periods and weight gain, but there are many emotional changes that take place as a result of declining hormone levels.

You may experience moodiness, depression or feelings of sadness and hopelessness. If this is the case, there's a strong likelihood that your mate is feeling somewhat confused by your behavior and may be left wondering if you still love him and want to spend the rest of your life with him.

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If your husband or partner is whatever like mine, it's not likely that he'll explore data that's ready to him in order to outline out what's happening within your body and how it may be affecting your emotions. If men don't have the answers, how will they respond to the "foreign" you?

Unfortunately, men respond to women's hormonal imbalances using many distinct approaches that aren't all the time the most effective. Some men plainly ignore the question and hope it will go away, while others may be overbearing and treat their partner as if she's emotionally brittle and incapable of dealing with life.

The connection problems couples face during midlife, in most cases, surely is usually a lack of communication due to the misunderstanding that results from hormonal imbalances and behavior changes in women approaching menopause.

If you find that you're facing some challenges in your connection due to hormone fluctuations, and you don't surely see your mate taking the time or initiative to outline out what may be happening, it may be a good idea to tape the following messages to your refrigerator, mirror, tool box or other area where he's sure to take notice.

1. If your wife or partner is feeling undesirable (and there's a good chance that this may occur often during this transition), it may be self-operating for you to express how gorgeous she is. Unfortunately, she is not likely to believe you. Don't let this become a slammed door, however; continue to be loving, kind and supportive consistently and ultimately she will trust that you surely do find her desirable.

2. Since your wife is not feeling sexy as a result of the weight she has likely gained during this duration in her life, please don't let your eyes pop out of your head when a young sexy woman appears on Tv or passes by you in a restaurant. And worse yet, avoid the temptation to flirt with younger women. This behavior is insensitive and uncalled for, and only adds to an already strained relationship.

3. When you think your wife is behaving irrationally, remember that she's not crazy and zip it! That's right - just keep your thoughts to yourself because frequently what men view as irrational, women do not.

4. When your wife has something she'd like to tell you, listen! Don't dismiss her, even if you've heard this same story over and over again. It's leading to your wife to have a partner - one with whom she can communicate. If it's tempting to interrupt her, take a moment to put yourself in her shoes and decree how you would feel if your every view or emotion were brushed off as if it meant nothing.

5. There's a strong possibility that your wife's sex drive is not what it once was. This is confusing and scary for your wife, and may very well add to her moodiness. As a matter of fact, it's not unusual for women to find fault with their spouses in order to feel justified in not having the desire to have sex. Openly present with your wife about this, and make an endeavor to work together to remedy this question so that your sex life can become rejuvenated. A healthy sex life contributes to your uncut bodily health, as well as the condition of your relationship.

6. Let your wife know she can count on you. Possibly she's feeling overwhelmed with a busy schedule and a tired body. Put down the newspaper or the remote control and pick up a broom. You'll be amazed by her positive reaction to your your desire to help out nearby the house.

7. Stop at the store on your way home from work and pick up a romantic card or a bouquet of flowers. Don't wait for your wife to suggest going out to dinner; go ahead and be assertive and plainly tell her the two of you are going out on a nice exiguous date.

8. Your wife may be doing a lot of complaining lately; you can encourage her to stop complaining by giving her reasons to know she's lucky to have you in her life.

9. Make your wife laugh - even if you need to be the butt of your own jokes (better you than her).

10. Finally, express your love for your wife and let her know that you understand this may be a rough ride for her and you want to do whatever you can to pave the road for a flat transition into menopause.

While it's leading for your spouse to be insight and sympathetic to your needs during this transitional period, it's also leading that you do all you can to take care of yourself - both physically and emotionally. Be sure to eat a healthy diet, rehearsal regularly, get plenty of rest and take time for yourself.

If you're sure to do all you can to remain healthy, there's no doubt that you will feel beautiful, immature and full of energy - your absolute best - as you coming menopause.

Men Dealing With Women's Menopause Symptoms

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Thursday, December 15, 2011

Using Stock Cabinets in Your Kitchen develop

Any time you can keep your selections to stock sizes and items, you go a long way towards holding the cost of your task down. So it is a good idea to know what the stock sizes are as you are designing your space. Accepted lengths for plywood and melamine cabinets are 8' and 12' in a 4' width. Keep these dimensions in mind as you create your design.

While you can all the time have some special, practice additions made to your cabinets by the manufacturer, you may be able to start with a Accepted cabinet and plainly have a local cabinet maker do some after store work on your cabinets to make them look practice without paying the full practice price.

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Kitchen cabinets are usually 12" deep and the lowest cabinets are usually 24" deep. Generally you will not run into a question with these two dimensions. The challenge comes when you are fitting the width of your cabinet. Cabinets come in 1' increments, and as luck would have it, your kitchen space may not be a determination that is evenly divisible by one-foot increments. As a result, you may end up with a small pocket of odd space that you need to deal with if you are using stock cabinets in your kitchen.

Best Ideas for a Floor Plan

To found your cabinets get some ¼ inch graph paper and draw a detailed floor plan. You can use a 1-inch to 1-foot scale. Draw the perimeter of your kitchen to scale on the graph paper. Then mark all of the openings into the room like windows and doors. Do not comprise the current cabinets in your drawing, but you may want to mark where the refrigerator and sink go unless you are planning to move your plumbing. You may want to mark where your stove is as well if redoing the venting is a big deal. Generally redoing the wiring for a stove is not a big deal, but redoing the venting may be.

Now make some stock size cabinets out of paper cutouts. Make a range of Accepted size cutouts so that you can move them colse to the kitchen to find which configuration works best. You may also want to have a cutout for your refrigerator and stove to add to the mix.

Now that you have your found grid ready to go, there are some things that you want to reconsider as you create your design.

o Do not put drawers in a corner. If you do, the space beside the drawers will just be dead space. It would be a better selection to put two cabinets side by side in a corner, because you can modify a stock cabinet and add an opportunity in the side so you can way the projection space. This modification will not show once the cabinets are assembled.
o Do not place your stove in a corner. Even if you have counter space on whether side of the corner, the cupboard beside the stove will be useless.
o Keep projection cabinets at least 18 inches. Any narrower, and you will create a cabinet that is too narrow to use.
o Allow adequate drawer space. If you are in doubt add more drawers than you think you will need. While it is great to have just adequate drawers for silverware and stirring spoons, you will want a place to keep your other kitchen essentials like tin foil, rubber bands, pot holders and dish towels.
o Add a lazy Susan to your corner. Adding a turntable to your projection spaces will let you use them more efficiently.
o Use coarse sense. You refrigerator keeps food cold, and your stove and oven heats food. Do not put them right next to each other. You will just make your refrigerator work harder to do its job, and you will wear it out faster. You might also want to reconsider what this brainstorm would cost you in higher utility bills.

Whenever you found a kitchen you want to keep the efficient food prep triangle in mind. This is a pattern formed by you refrigerator, sink and stove. If you have to put all of these spaces on a single wall try to have your sink in the middle.

After you resolve on the configuration of your lowest cabinets, then you can resolve where your upper cabinets will go. Now instead of a floor plan style layout, you will want to look at the elevation view of your room. This view shows the walls of your room to scale. It shows all of the window and door openings, and shows the height and width of each. We are not involved about depth in this drawing; your goal is to mark the height of all the base cabinets. Stock base cabinets are Generally 34 ½" high which allows your countertop to be about 36" from the ground.

First, mark out your refrigerator, and draw a line colse to your room. This is the level of the lowest of your upper cabinets. Your quarterly wall cabinets will be 18" over the countertop or 54" from the floor. If you prefer, you can all the time mount your cabinets 16" over the counter to help you reach the second shelf more easily.

Once you can see how the elevation view of your new cabinets will look, go back to your floor layout, and mark a 12" line to indicate the depth of the upper cabinets wherever you plan to mount an upper cabinet.

If you make paper scale cutouts of your cabinets from the elevation view, you can line them up on your elevation drawing to see how they look. In single you want to consideration how the vertical lines of the doors line up. Even if the lines in the middle of the upper and lower cabinets do not match completely, you want to make sure that they create an aesthetically keen pattern and do not look disjointed. Move your paper cutouts colse to to see what patterns are the most keen before choosing on your final cabinet placement.

After you have moved your paper cutouts colse to and settled on your cabinet configuration, you will have a actually clear insight of how they will look in your kitchen.

Using Stock Cabinets in Your Kitchen develop

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Monday, December 12, 2011

Is Your Old Fridge Running Optimally? Do-it-Yourself Tune-up

Unless your fridge is so outdated or worn out that you've already decided to replace it with an vigor recovery refrigerator, it's a good idea to do a straightforward appraisal to see if the fridge is running efficiently. Issues like how often and for how long the compressor is on, whether there's frost in the freezer compartment, how good your door seals are, and the temperature of the freezer and fridge sections, can all impact your refrigerator electricity efficiency.

Start by just trying to remember how often you hear the compressor motor churning. Does it seem to be running continuously, or is the fridge mostly silent? Does the compressor appear to short cycle (short bursts of running time, then short rests)? during times of the day when the refrigerator door stays shut (for example overnight), the behavior of electricity consumption for vigor productive refrigerators is regularly that of short periods with the compressor motor running, interspersed with much longer periods of the compressor motor switched off. If that's how your refrigerator operates, you're in good shape.

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If the compressor is on continuously, there could be problems with the gasket seal, or dust build-up on the coils, or the refrigerator may be in a closed-in space so that the heat the motor is working to extract from the interior has no place to fly to. You might just have an old fridge with an inefficient compressor, which means less heat is extracted for a given vigor consumption, or you might have poor insulation in the fridge walls, so that more heat leaks in through the fridge sides. Or you may have set the temperature too low in whether the fridge or the freezer compartment.

Next look for ice build-up in the freezer section. Fast or heavy ice build-up in a manual-defrost freezer is regularly an indication that warm, moist air is getting into the freezer compartment. You could have a poor seal on the freezer section, which allows cold air to fly through the seal, and warm, moist air to enter in its place. It takes more electricity to extract heat from moist air than from dry air, so you win on two fronts by minimizing air leakage. Even if you have a great seal, you should defrost a manual-defrost freezer regularly. You should never let more than a quarter inch of ice form on the compartment walls, as the frost makes the compressor work harder.

Check your fridge and freezer compartment gaskets to make sure you have a good seal. The proper test is the dollar-bill test. Open the refrigerator or freezer door so that you can slide a dollar bill halfway in, then shut the door. If the dollar bill is held tightly in place, the seal is good in that part of the gasket. Do the same at assorted other points along the door seal. If at any point the bill slides out, or feels loose, try inviting the bill along the seal up and down until it sticks. That should give you a feeling for how big each leak is.

You can occasionally solve gasket leaks by wiping down the gasket to take off any residue that might prevent a good seal. But if there are gaps and the gasket is clean, it's time to replace the seal.

Your refrigerator may pass the dollar bill test even though the gasket is letting in air - if the gasket is ripped. Cracks can grow in the thin part of the gasket where it attaches to the door. So run your finger along the gasket feeling for rips, all the way around each door.

For a do-it-yourself person, gaskets can be fairly easy to replace. I bought a new gasket for my fridge five years back and without former schooling had it on the door within a half hour. And an appliance repair man can setup one even quicker, especially if you let them know to bring along a change gasket with them before they make their service call. So if your gasket is leaky, get it replaced.

What are the ideal temperature settings for your fridge and freezer sections?

The last thing to check in your do-it-yourself refrigerator check-up is the median temperature in both compartments of your fridge. You can use whether a straightforward glass thermometer or an electronic probe thermometer to check temperatures. Put the thermometer (or the probe portion, for an electronic thermometer) in a jar half-filled with water (a pickle jar does nicely), and leave it in the compartment for a full 24 hours. (Make sure the jar is only half filled with liquid for the freezer compartment, because otherwise you'll break the jar. Don't open the unit for at least an hour before you do your 24-hour measurement. Check the temperature on the thermometer. For the fridge compartment, you should strive for 39F or 40F (or 4C). For the freezer section, go for 5F (or -15C). If the fridge or freezer temperature is lower than the ideal settings, you are wasting electricity cooling your food more than you need to.

Remember that for chest or full upright freezers, where food is regularly kept longer than in the freezer compartment of fridges, you should strive for a slightly lower freezer temperature of 0F or -17C.

If the temperature is not at the spoton setting, adjust the thermostat in the proper section upwards or downwards by just a small amount. Then wait another 24 hours and do a second measurement. It's best to tweak the thermostat a diminutive at a time, until you achieve the ideal refrigerator temperature. Once you get to the spoton setting, you can use a permanent felt pen to draw a line on the thermostat dial, so you have a reference point. It's not a given that this will all the time give you the spoton temperature (thermostats can be temperamental) but if you subsequently observation that the mark is far from its former position, you'll know to quantum the compartment temperature once more.

It's prominent to quantum your refrigerator temperature (both compartments) on a monthly basis, or at the very least, if you have already measured and have marked the spoton position of the thermostat dial, to see that the dial hasn't moved. It's easy for these dials to get turned inadvertently, or on purpose by diminutive hands, and if the temperature moves far from the allowable settings of 40F for the fridge section or 5F for the freezer compartment, you will whether have to deal with food spoilage or a higher vigor bill.

Is Your Old Fridge Running Optimally? Do-it-Yourself Tune-up

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Wednesday, December 7, 2011

How to Make Your Own High Efficiency Refrigerator

Using high efficiency technology and making a few uncomplicated lifestyle changes can have a large impact on your daily vigor use and make living off the grid much more feasible. One of the technological improvements I have made that I am most happy with is my home modified high efficiency refrigerator. This refrigerator has been my only refrigerator for 4 years and has operated flawlessly with extremely low power consumption. In this article, I will frame my reasons for the convert and elucidate how to make the conversion so you can try it out yourself.

My motivation to experiment with a new refrigeration strategy came from my sense with my old refrigerator. It was a fairly tasteless style of stand up refrigerator with a freezer section on the top third and it consumed an outrageous total of 5-6kwh a day! The major flaw of the tasteless refrigerator is that the doors are placed on the side. A proper construct should take into account the fact that cold air is more dense that the rest of the air in your house and will drop in height when given the chance. Well, the cold air in your refrigerator gets that occasion every time you open the door. As you gaze inside to elect your next meal, all of the cold air rushes out by your feet and is supplanted by warmer air from your living space that will now need to be cooled. Also, the magnetic door seals, no matter how air tight when they are new, will inevitably construct imperfections and allow the cooled air to seep through constantly.

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An efficient refrigerator construct must start with a well insulated chest style container. If you don't want to build your own, you're in luck because any chest freezer will work wonderfully. Cool air from within the unit will not leak because the door is placed on the top. Also, each time you open the refrigerator to grab something to eat the cool air will stay inside and will not need to be recooled as soon as you shut the door.

The unavoidable question with using a chest freezer as your refrigerator is that its thermostat is set for a climatic characteristic range far to low. To solve this problem, it is needful to setup another circuit with a thermostat and relay switch to make sure the climatic characteristic stays at about 4 degrees Celsius. Basically, this circuit must turn on the freezer compressor when the climatic characteristic rises above 4 C and turn off when the climatic characteristic drops below 4 C. The simplest selection would be to find a cooling line voltage thermostat with a range of 0 - 10 C but I couldn't find one so I had to use a quarterly heating thermostat with a range of about 0-30 C. If I set this heating thermostat at 4 C and hooked it up to my chest freezer, it would turn on the freezer when the climatic characteristic dropped below 4 C and this would only make it colder or if the climatic characteristic was above 4 C the thermostat would never turn on the freezer! More research was needed to solve this problem.

The clarification I found was the Spdt relay switch. An Spdt relay uses the electromagnetic force of a coil to control a switch in another circuit and this relay allowed me to use a heating thermostat to correctly control freezer compressor. When the heating thermostat reads a climatic characteristic of 3 C it will close its circuit and this will allow current through the relay coil and flip the switch to the off position. When the heating thermostat reads a climatic characteristic of 5 C, it will open its circuit and this will stop the current through the relay coil and close the other circuit thereby turning on the freezer compressor.

In order to get wires to the new thermostat inside the refrigerator, I opened up the drain plug at the lowest corner of the unit. The hole is taped shut with duct tape inside. The relay switch is just tucked away in the middle of the wall and the refrigerator for now. I'll build a nice circuit box for it at some point.

I can keep all of the same foods in this chest refrigerator but the assosication has changed because the door is on the top. I found two Rubbermaid bins that fit the large warehouse area quite well. I stack one on top of the other and just pull out the top one when I want to get at stuff in the bottom. I view this process might get annoying but I found that I rarely have to do this if I just put my long term warehouse items in the lowest holder and all of my daily used items in the top container.

Since the main presuppose for this project was vigor conservation I should fill you in on the execution of this chest refrigerator. I plugged my vigor metre into this unit for a few days and found that it used about 200wh a day on average. That's only 2 cents a day of electricity and a huge drop from my old vigor sucking model that used 5-6 kwh a day. The most efficient refrigerators you can buy new today use around 1 kwh a day and this construct uses only one fifth of that!

This contrast in power consumption only means a few dollars a year on my power bill if you are already hooked up to the grid but if you consider buying solar panels to power your household technology then this contrast in vigor consumption means spending thousands of dollars less on solar panels so the uncomplicated convert to a chest refrigerator makes living off the grid much more viable.

How to Make Your Own High Efficiency Refrigerator

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Sunday, December 4, 2011

How Lab Refrigerators Are Used to Store Blood and Plasma

The primary contrast between a lab refrigerator and a household refrigerator is that lab refrigerators are designed to withstand explosions, and a household unit is not. In the lab, discrete materials and samples need to be safely stored, some of which can be quite volatile. With that in mind, a lab refrigerator is designed not only to keep a constant temperature, but to keep their contents secure. Many come with latches or locks as well as external climatic characteristic monitors.

Many lab refrigerators come with a rapid rescue ideas which helps keep a constant climatic characteristic even with continuous door openings. This prevents delicate samples from suffering damage due to climatic characteristic fluctuations. They also allow for hand-operated defrosting, rather than a house refrigerator's automated defrosting, which lets you settle when it is convenient for the process will take place. Some units also come with glass doors that allow you to see what is inside without having to permanently open the door to take inventory.

Four Door Refrigerator

One of the most foremost features on a laboratory refrigerator is the alarm. Separate clubs offer Separate options, but the primary function of the alarm is to let you know the instant the climatic characteristic within the refrigeration unit has changed. An choice some clubs offer is a chart recorder, which allows you to track the operation of your refrigerator to ensure its efficiency.

One of the main uses today for a lab refrigerator is in the preserving of blood and plasma in blood banks. With refrigeration blood is able to be preserved for greater periods of time. These refrigerators are designed to declare the blood at a constant climatic characteristic and often come with security measures such as password protection, automated alarm systems, and climatic characteristic graphs that allow for 24 hour monitoring.

There are also laboratory refrigerators designed for pharmacies, which allow a patient's medication to be properly stored and forestall spoiling. As with other lab refrigerators they come with electronic climatic characteristic controls, security systems, and warning systems in case of climatic characteristic fluctuations. They can be designed with further shelves and drawers, glass doors for easy inventory, and entrance ports to forestall temperatures changing due to constant opening and conclusion of doors.

Morgues, too, have their own specially designed lab refrigerators. There are two variations of mortuary cold chambers, the obvious climatic characteristic and the negative temperature. A obvious climatic characteristic unit is similar to a lab refrigerator, holding the contents at a stable 2 to 4 degrees Celsius. These allow a body to be kept for some weeks, though it does not forestall decomposition.

More recently refrigerators have been made ready for personal use, and can be bought for home use, nursing homes and even schools. They are used to store delicate medications that want more care than can be given with a common, household refrigerator.

A blend of laboratory refrigerator and freezer can be found, though the cost increases with the greater complexity of the machine. There are many clubs who can furnish you with a laboratory refrigerator or freezer depending on your current needs, and come in a range of sizes from uprights to counter sized to walk ins.

How Lab Refrigerators Are Used to Store Blood and Plasma

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Thursday, December 1, 2011

Factors to Be considered While Buying a Refrigerator

To buy household items is a pleasing taste but it may be a daunting one too if you do not get the right thing for your need. Refrigerator is one such thing that makes your kitchen complete. So, it is important for you to buy the refrigerator carefully retention in view your needs. Before buying it, you can get information about its working, designs, durability etc. Through the refrigerator reviews, refrigerator ratings and buyer recommendations available in the market and even on internet. There are separate models to select in addition to the separate brands, styles and even colors available in the market.

The easiest thing to begin before you buy it is by request yourself the following questions: How much space do you need? How many house members are there to use it? Will your house increase or reduce? Do you want it to store food for longer or shorter period? What color of refrigerator will match with your kitchen or dining room color scheme? Where are you planning to place it?

Four Door Refrigerator

The space inside a refrigerator is of great value. It is expressed in Cubic Feet. In case of larger family, you need spacious refrigerator but if house is small, you should not buy the big one. The calculate behind it is that, bigger one will want more time for handling and maintenance which will consume your high-priced time. Moreover, it will use more electricity which is just a waste. You approximately need about ten cubic feet of interior warehouse capacity for only two persons. If you have a house of four members, you will need at least a 20 cubic feet refrigerator.

Refrigerator's option also depends upon your eating habits. If you are a vegetarian, you do not need a huge sized freezer space inside the fridge. You want as much space as you can deal with comfortably.

Factors to Be considered While Buying a Refrigerator

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